Another GSXR Front End

[D'Ecosse]

'07 GSXR 600 front clip on '03 SVS using Hayabusa Wheel/Rotors & GSXR Speed Sensor

Well, that's the executive summary above!

I had multiple reasons for selecting the Hayabusa wheel -
1) It's silver, so matches the rear;
2) Has 320mm rotor so BIG brakes;
3) Have used this combo (Hayabusa wheel/GSXR front end) on my TL so already had the spacer dimension down.

A couple of things are required to integrate the Hayabusa wheel:
1) 320mm rotor requires 5mm caliper spacers
2) Rotor spacing on center is 134mm vs GSXR 132mm
- requires 1mm machined off inside face of each rotor to bring back to 132mm centers
3) Wheel center/spacing;
- Hayabusa is 214mm fork spacing (on center); GSXR is 207mm.
- requires (214-207)/2 off the right GSXR axle spacer. (12.25 - 3.5 = 8.75mm net)

Here are the rotor mods & caliper spacers:

First image is actually off my TL but spacing is same - that dimension - 137mm - is after the rotors have been machined - is the dimension across outside faces of rotors so minus thickness of one rotor (5mm) leaves 132 center - center.





Machined Rotor (above & below)



These are my own custom caliper spacers which I designed for my first GSXR transplant onto my Triumph over 2 years ago - I have these CNC'd. (My Daytona, TL and now the SV all sport GSXR front ends with 320mm rotors)





After machining the spacer to correct dimension, that takes care of the wheel/rotor/caliper alignment. Last piece of the brake install is to mount the Radial Master & re-orient the reservoir bracket to match the radial inlet tube. I have temporary brake lines on there for testing - the radial master's brake-line connection is 90 deg off vs 'conventional' master & lines require to be a couple of inches longer, because the banjo connection is lower on the radial caliper. Temporary configuration worked fine for now.

Next up is the speedo drive:

I happened to have in hand a GSXR final output drive speedo sensor off an 01 GSXR 600.
Now that sender actually reads off the edge, not the face like the ones that are typically being used.
(I had a well-intended suggestion from a member on another site that I had it mounted incorrectly and should have the front face towards the magnets - but I can assure it is in fact correct in the orientation shown.)
I realized that in this appication the edge of the 'base' actually would be closer to the rotor, compromising ability to align with the magnets. So I took my dremel and ground away the edge that would be adjacent to the rotors. Even after you break throught the casing proper, there is an epoxy filling inside the sender - so I just continued to grind further, just keeping a watchful eye for anything that wasn't just epoxy! No worries though, was able to remove all I needed without interfering with anything internal. Literally 2 mins work with the dremel to re-profile it.
Of course the cable is really short, but the plug is correct to fit the SV harness; simply cut the plug off the cable, spliced in a 3 wire extender and heat-shrunk everything together again.
Made a simple bracket off 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum angle. The screws were cut really short so I can use the fender mounts on the inside. (the fender screws are cut shorter to match) This allows the bracket to be easily mounted & not interfere with the fender. The nice thing is it's all hidden behind the fender (you can see I wasn't too concerend about getting a quality paint job on the bracket!). Of course used the GSXR fender so that is a straight bolt-on.
Actually prefer the black fender than the OEM body color item.
Last up, glued 4 trigger magnets on the rotor using 60 sec epoxy. These were simple ceramic magnets and actually do the job just fine, but I'll probably replace with some rare-earth once I source them.

(note that in a couple of the pics below it shows the spring washers between the bracket & the fender mounts - I thought it needed to be closer to the rotor but subsequently removed the washers from between & relocated convenytionally under the screw head on top of the bracket.









The result is it works great! Was not able to do a specific cal test but it is certainly 'in the ball park'. Definitely at 4 counts per wheel rev in the same range as OEM - but as reported elsewhere with somewhat of a correction because of the slightly larger tire.

The Triple Tree/fork install is pretty straight forward on the '03+ - bearings are the same & the steering stops on the 06/07 lower triple co-ordinate with the fixed frame stops. Different story if it was a Gen1 of course, that has a single fixed stop at front of the frame so something would have to devised there - but fortunately not for me to worry about.


Last piece of the retrofit is of course the top clamp. I received the left-sided-ignition top clamp with the '07 series forks. To mount the ignition simply required the mounting holes in the ignition assembly to be elongated to allow it move further out radially from the stem, as well as closer together to centralize the holes which are 2mm closer than the GSXR mount posts (48mm vs 50mm). 2 min operation with a rat-tail file. I also wanted the std bar risers on there even though this is an 'S' model - I had already converted to bars using an 'N' top clamp before the GSXR conversion.
In order to align the holes for the riser clamps to be spaced perfectly symmetrically I first made a pattern with the main fork clamps, steering stem & riser holes all laid out correct dimensionally in CAD program (2D only required) then printed on transparency.
This was then aligned & taped over the clamp and the centers marked through the transparency onto the yokes top surface. Then drilled out to 10mm for the OEM bar risers from the 'N' model.
Finished up with the same Rizoma bars that had previously been mounted - I hadn't replaced the throttle cables so these were a little tricky to get a sweet spot where they would operate yet not interfere with the brake. You can see the best location in one of the attached pics, over the top of the master.
Clutch cable was already replaced with an 'N' model previously. The ignition cable now runs through aperture on the left side of the steering head.







Once the top clamp was installed I discovered an issue that makes the 06/07 600/750 item not a good solution - when bars turn to the left, the ignition will actually hit the frame & effectively become the 'stop', before the proper stop hits! So that will be replaced with an alternative clamp - more on that later.

Here's the (almost) final result - at least a running entity.





Still to do:
Replace the brake lines with Galfer twin braided lines, designed for Radial Master orientation & 2" longer than Std. 'N' lines.
Install OEM fender hardware in place of the temporary generic metric screws.
Source & install rare-earth magnets in place of the ceramics
Replace the top clamp to overcome the left side ignition interference.

[D'Ecosse]

p.s. With these big 320mm rotors this thing will now stand on its nose - the brakes are simply AWESOME!
(I was seriously underwhelmed with the OEM brakes).

[Spierings]

Looks nice and the wheel got the same look as the stock wheel .

[DougZ]

very good write up.

[VARIABLE9]

Awesomeness.

[DougZ]

D: Do those spacers need to have that extra littler insert like that?? I make(made) spacers for the radial swaps too, but have only ever made ~10 mm ID, ~22mm OD, and 5 or 10 mm thickness. I did have one person approach me to make them like you did....but of the 50 or so sets I have made...there was only that one person.

Did you do them on a manual lathe or a CNC?

[nille]

Nice work!
Similar to what I've done to my ride,
but I used the Bandit 1200 wheel and have 310mm rotors.

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread....35#post1066035

[D'Ecosse]

Originally Posted by nille

.... Similar to what I've done to my ride,
but I used the Bandit 1200 wheel and have 310mm rotors....

That's a great looking bike nille - I'm sure it was more practical swap without the rotor machining also!
Hayabusa wheels are probably more plentiful - although even those are hard to find in silver.
TLR wheels are same as the 'busa and were also available in silver.

[JPL_SV]

Good write up, good info. I plan on doing the GSX-R swap soon, but with the GSX-R 300mm radial brake rotors and calipers. Will the OE speed sensor from my SVS work on this setup?

[D'Ecosse]

Originally Posted by JPL_SV

..Will the OE speed sensor from my SVS work on this setup?

No - the SVS sender is for the SV axle and won't fit the 25mm GSXR axle - nor does the GSXR wheel have the detent to drive the rotating magnet.
You need to do something similar to above - there are quite a few threads with other alternative methods.
This is one of the popular methods as detailed here