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| SV Modifications and General Maintenance General information about modding and servicing your SV. |
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#12 |
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Supporting Member
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Re: Winterizing - Oil in the cylinder
One of the worst things you can do is run the bike unless you are going to run it for an extended period of time (minimum 30 minutes). Note that short runs are considered severe service by all engine makers.
When you start an engine blowby is worse because the rings have not heated up and expanded (end clearance is big). Unburned fuel and combustion products get into the cold crankcase. Water vapor condenses. These products don't cook out until the oil is fully hot, and then it takes several minutes to cook out. If they don't cook out the water is particularly bad. It mixes with combustion products and produces acids (at least, that's what you have to worry about). Oils do have buffering agents in their additive packages that helps neutralize these acids and deal with some of the other combustion products. These additives get used up pretty quickly leaving the engine's bearings vulnerable to acid attack. Prepare properly, let it hibernate. Use a battery tender. Storing with a less-than-full tank is another big mistake. This leaves breathing room and the possibility of condensed water accumulating in the tank. |
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#13 |
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Supporting Member
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Re: Winterizing - Oil in the cylinder
^ I'm with andyauger - fresh oil, full tank w/stabilizer, and don't light it up until you are ready to ride it again.
Jay
__________________
Red '06 SV650n, Motosliders, Delkevic pipe, seat cowl, fe, blacked-out signal lenses/ mirrors/ headlight rim/ rearsets and brackets, Daytona bars, SportAttacks, no stickers or reflectors, 16T countershaft, front running lights. Chicago Metro NW. Powder coating. |
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