Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

So I'm going to make a step by step picture catalog/guide on doing a GSXR swap for a 99-02 SV650. Things should start to come up very soon. I will begin to post as soon as I have the stock front end off. Suscribe if you would like to see it as it goes...

First you gotta go and get yourself a 99-02 SV650 and get it into your workspace..
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1346.jpg

Since my garage door doesnt shut and it is currently 1 degree here in WI mine just happens to double as my living room.

Now before I go on I strongly suggest you invest in some baggies and a permanent marker so that you can label things as you take them apart.

The parts list is as follows...

2006/07 GSXR 750 front forks.
2006 GSXR wheel and calipers.
1997 SRAD 750 upper/lower triples.
TWF top bearing kit.
lots and lots of fasteners...

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1352.jpg

So start by getting the bike up with a rear jackstand and secured in the front with a regular jack but don't jack it up yet. You'll need to do a lot of torquing on some nuts, especially the ones for the handlebars and the bike isnt very stable once it's been lifted.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1354.jpg

So start by undoing the headlight bolts, 2 on each side and a third on the bottom.
For some reason i dont have a pic of this, but its pretty self explanatory.

Then undo the controls, the left has 2 and the right has 3 screws.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1350.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1353.jpg
There are also 2 screws to remove the left mirror along with the master cylinder. They come out with an 8mm socket. The right one will have to be slid off after the grip is removed.

Ok so now its time to get the handlebars off...
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1357.jpg
The 4 chrome things on top of the risers can be removed using a razor blade but be careful not to scratch them.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1370.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1371.jpg

This bolt sucks...you really need a lot of leverage to get it off so its a good idea to like slide a pipe on the end of the wrench. This is the bolt that holds the lower part of the riser in place.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1355.jpg

After you get that off the triple should look something like this...

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1360.jpg

The next thing is to remove the gauges which you can also see in the above pic. All it takes is some more finesse..It has 2 bolts that are located ahead of the 2 that keep the risers on.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1365.jpg

Lookin good...So now you gotta take off the top nut. Be careful not to lose the washer that is under it. Also, you will need an allen wrench to remove the upper pinch bolts.
After that it slides right off.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1366.jpg
Makes you wonder why people on ebay always say "damage from where triples clamp". If I can do this without damaging it, anyone should be able to.

And the bottom of the triple clamp. In this pic the upper holes are for the speedo and the lower ones are for the risers.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1369.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1366.jpg

Ok now you can jack the bike up. I would suggest only getting it off the ground far enough so that the tire can clear the ground. It's also a good idea to put jackstands under the pegs for added stability.
The wheel comes off relatively easy. Just unscrew the axle and it comes out as a whole. Watch for the speedo sensor on the left side, it's crammed in between the fork and the wheel on the left side. Also, you will have to remove at least one of the calipers for clearance.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1363.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1364.jpg

So this is kinda what it will look like:
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1368.jpg

I'll continue to post as I take parts off...

The parts list is as follows...

2006/07 GSXR 750 front forks.
2006 GSXR wheel and calipers.
1997 SRAD 750 upper/lower triples.
This is gonna be interesting. The SRAD triples are wider than later makes, making alignment of the rotors and radial calipers a bit tricky with the (slimmer) wheels from 00 up. What are you gonna do about that? What axle will you use?

Looking forward to your further progess!

Ciao
Jan, SRAD triples, SRAD wheel, SRAD axle, 04 rest => shimmed rotors

This is gonna be interesting. The SRAD triples are wider than later makes, making alignment of the rotors and radial calipers a bit tricky with the (slimmer) wheels from 00 up. What are you gonna do about that? What axle will you use?

Looking forward to your further progess!

Ciao
Jan, SRAD triples, SRAD wheel, SRAD axle, 04 rest => shimmed rotors


+1 shimming will be required i run srad triples and axle with busa rim and 05 gsxr 600 forks, you need a 2 to 2.5 mm shim between the rim and rotors for the calipers to line up correctly

+1 shimming will be required i run srad triples and axle with busa rim and 05 gsxr 600 forks, you need a 2 to 2.5 mm shim between the rim and rotors for the calipers to line up correctlyFurthermore he´ll need a way to center the wheel - it´s a tad slimmer than the wheels we use. I´m curious what he comes up with, especially since I know very little about the changed axle design from 06 up...

Ciao
Jan

Those appear to be 600 forks I think? Haven't seen any gold 750 ones, they are usually black on the 750?

You will also need shims between those fork legs & lower triple clamp - the SRAD is for 54mm legs, those Showa 06+ forks are 53mm. So you will need some 0.5mm (~20thou) shim material to make a sleeve.

It will indeed need the 3.5mm rotor shims (2.5mm for a TL/busa wheel) and the wheel will also need to be offset by 3.5mm on the axle. Stock spacer on right side of axle is 12.25mm - should be 14.75mm to recenter wheel.
So can make a new one-piece spacer or add 3.5mm shim stack between right spacer & right fork leg.

An 08 Hyabusa axle will account for the extra width required (forkspacing will be 7mm wider using those SRAD triples)

Those appear to be 600 forks I think? Haven't seen any gold 750 ones, they are usually black on the 750?

You will also need shims between those fork legs & lower triple clamp - the SRAD is for 54mm legs, those Showa 06+ forks are 53mm. So you will need some 0.5mm (~20thou) shim material to make a sleeve.

It will indeed need the 3.5mm rotor shims (2.5mm for a TL/busa wheel) and the wheel will also need to be offset by 3.5mm on the axle. Stock spacer on right side of axle is 12.25mm - should be 14.75mm to recenter wheel.

An 08 Hyabusa axle will account for the extra width required (forkspacing will be 7mm wider using those SRAD triples)


i believe those are 04/05 600/750 forks but the glare might be throwing me off a bit

i believe those are 04/05 600/750 forks ...
Later Axle tells they are definitely the 06+ forks - gold are more likely the 600's however.
In fact the fiche does not show an alternative colour so have to be the 600's.

I see on EBay all the time they are listed by sellers as 600/750 - they are the same fitment however, but the 750's (black outer tubes) have stiffer springs (1kg vs 0.9) - dampers are identical.

Everyone has their own way of doing things so this isn't criticism just alternative:

After removing the riser tops & bars, drop the speedo, then undo the top clamp & flip it over & stick it back on the forks to get easier access to the riser nuts & ignition bolts (unplug ignition harness if it helps to get extra freedom)
No need to re-clamp it up, just use the forks to hold it from turning.

Everyone has their own way of doing things so this isn't criticism just alternative:

After removing the riser tops & bars, drop the speedo, then undo the top clamp & flip it over & stick it back on the forks to get easier access to the riser nuts & ignition bolts (unplug ignition harness if it helps to get extra freedom)
No need to re-clamp it up, just use the forks to hold it from turning.

That's exactly what I did when I was forced to drill out the security torx screws in the bottom of the ignition. Worked like a charm.

That stupid "tamper proof" torx thing was a pain. Had to go to 3 sears stores before i found one that worked. As D'Ecosse said, several people post up on ebay 600/750 so I just used 750 when i was describing them.

Even after reading the "swap post" that is around here somewhere I must have missed the part that the SRAD triples were wider than later models. Thanks a lot for the shim sizes for the rotors and wheel, saved me a TON of time...

Ok, so now you gotta use a size 40 or 45 (40 worked for me but it seemed small) tamper proof torx wrench to get the ignition out of the triple.

After that, unscrew the retaining bolts that hold the speedo cable in place
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1373.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1374.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1375.jpg

Then you can snake it up and out of the way of the triples. Be sure to double check that the forks and the brakes and brake lever are completely cleared of all wires and harnesses, whatever.

Also, slide off the blinker and headlight retainers.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1376.jpg

Now it's time to pull the forks. Get a rag, unless you don't care about your stock parts, and cover the nut that has like 5 divots in it and lightly tap it with a screwdriver and a hammer until you can feel it get loose enough that you can use your hands. Then, hold the forks from the bottom triple and unscrew the nut. This is the ONLY thing holding the forks up now so be careful.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1380.jpg

And here's the stock front end, removed from the bike.

So here's your bike after the front end is gone. Try riding it...
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1378.jpg

Next, remove the screws that hold on the headlight and look for the 2 bolts that fell into the housing when you originally took off the headlight. Then undo the wires for the blinkers since you can't really use them right now. Also be sure to put some tape over the wires and label them so you know right from left.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1377.jpg

Phew! Easy huh? Now you can put your new forks on...or at least see what they look like on the bike.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1379.jpg

D'Ecosse,


What do you suggest as shim material? Thin sheet of aluminum?

... What do you suggest as shim material? Thin sheet of aluminum?

I assume you mean for the fork legs in the triple clamp?

It is specifically designated as shim stock - ideally 0.5mm but if you can't find metric 20 thou" will be good enough. Can be whatever you can find - brass is common.
If you can't find shim stock consider this
http://www.convertibars.com/Accessories.cfm - click on the link for additional completion components near the bottom - that is a kit with pre-formed shims. Those are actually 1mm & 2mm (that is the diameter delta designation - actually 0.5mm & 1mm stock) and intended to reduce 53mm to 52 or 51. But these are very close to the 54 you need and will re-form to that very small change on overall diameter.

For the wheels/rotors
Those are going to be some thick spacers - best machined as a one-piece
(I thought someone had done these at one time?) .

Here's what I did temporarily on my Triumph GSXR conversion

http://www.triumphrat.net/photogallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=35311.jpg

Then the final spacers were made

http://www.triumphrat.net/photogallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=35314.jpg

Note that these are only 1.5mm spacers - you will need 3.5mm (1/8" will get you close enough if can't find metric plate)

For the wheels/rotors
Those are going to be some thick spacers - best machined as a one-piece
(I thought someone had done these at one time?) .

Here's what I did temporarily on my Triumph GSXR conversion

http://www.triumphrat.net/photogallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=35311.jpg

Then the final spacers were made

http://www.triumphrat.net/photogallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=35314.jpg

Note that these are only 1.5mm spacers - you will need 3.5mm (1/8" will get you close enough if can't find metric plate)

+1 i have these same spacers but mine are 2.5mm thick
heres a blueprint provided to me by someone on here can't remember who though sorry
I simply brought it to a machine shop and they hooked me up cost 30 bucks for both i think
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee120/redmonkeyjp/RotorShim.jpg

You have a 'Busa rim though redmonkey - that is NOT the layout for the GSXR wheel the OP is using

Using your drawing above:
ID = 100.2
PCD = 120mm - 5 x 10.5 x 72deg
OD = (ideally whatever OD of wheel hub is) - something around 140mm

Thickness - 3.5mm (1/8" would be OK)

So then i'll need 2 right? One for each rotor, then a separate spacer for the rim, correct?

So then i'll need 2 right? One for each rotor, then a separate spacer for the rim, correct?
yes ......... & the shims for the fork legs in the triple also.
Ideally you should get an '08 Hayabusa axle - that one will be a little short - but can work.

So then i'll need 2 right? One for each rotor, then a separate spacer for the rim, correct?I had 2 pairs made (reduced the impact of the setup cost and I planned to have a race bike anyway...). They gave me the cnc mill program along with it. If I can find it, i´ll post it here.

Ciao
Jan

You have a 'Busa rim though redmonkey - that is NOT the layout for the GSXR wheel the OP is using

Using your drawing above:
ID = 100.2
PCD = 120mm - 5 x 10.5 x 72deg
OD = (ideally whatever OD of wheel hub is) - something around 140mm

Thickness - 3.5mm (1/8" would be OK)


I know i just wanted to provide a rough blueprint for him to go with if necessary never hurts :P. But also i believe the newer GSXR rims have 6rotor bolts on each side not 5 like the earlier Busas

My gsxr wheel actually does have 5 bolts, so the template and the new measurements will work pefrectly :P

So since the forks are now wider apart, will a carbon fiber fender have enough give to be pulled 5mm apart or will it break? Otherwise will i have to make a bracket?

Finally got the top bearing from Zoran today. So since this is the next step of my project, I'll continue on the "Guide". So after you have exposed the neck are of the bike and have the triples and steering stem off, it should look something like this:
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1487.jpg

the picture above is actually the neck shown from above without the race in it. To remove the race, go in from the bottom with a big ass punch, in excess of 12 inches.
You gotta hit it from the bottom using the milled notches supplied from the factory.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1483.jpg

After some light tapping and some finesse, it will pop out.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1485.jpg

Then you can take a look at the new bearing race and compare with the old one:
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1489.jpg

The stock race is on the right and the new one provided with the bearing is in the center.

As Zoran's instructions read, use the old race turned upside down to tap the new one into place. Here is what the neck looks like with the new race in.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1499.jpg

Zoran suggests that you file the notches deeper for future removal of the race, but I have no intentions of ever taking it out again so i didn't bother. He also suggests that you file the seat for the race in the event that you may have a poor casting. Luckily mine was cast pretty well so i didnt need to do any filing whatsoever.

After that you can grease up the top bearing and put it in place.

Now if you have a set of 53mm forks and a set of 54mm lower triples like i did, it will be necessary to either purchase or fabricate a 1mm spacer to accomodate the gap. I simply purchased a set of shims from convertibars for 20-something dollars, but making your own will definitely be cheaper.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1467.jpg

Unfortunately you can only buy a set of 4: 2 1mm and 2 2mm. I guess i'll have 2 2mm spacers for whatever i may need them for in the future....

Anyway, bend the shim lightly until you can fit it into the triple and press it against it to make its shape round.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1468.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1469.jpg

Now getting the forks into the triples with the shims in is a real !@$#%. Rolling them in and being extra careful not to scratch them will end up with part of the shim sticking out the top. Once you have the fork where you want it, i.e. matched up with the top triple, take a piece of wood shaped like a wedge and gently pound in the shim so it is flush with the fork.

Unfortunately my camera stopped working at this time so i dont have a picture for this but i will soon.
I'm waiting for the machined spacers for the wheel and rotors along with the top triple which i have had reinforced and drilled to accommodate bars and gauges. Hopefully I will have them done this weekend as it is the last thing i need.

Cool thread, but imho you should have filed the notches out for Zoran`s race because you might have to take it out when it wears out or something.

Rather than knocking bearings in with a mallet, I prefer to pull them in.
A length of threaded rod through the stem, a couple of nuts & washers (with the old bearing shell as Zoran suggests) and just wind the nuts down and pull the bearings all the way in to seat.

When installing the stem bearing, same method but use a conduit pipe slipped over the steering stem - again just wind the nuts on and those transfer the pressure via washers and the pipe to the bearing & press it on the stem.

For those who go the SRAD triples route - what do you guys do about a fender?
One advantage of the GSXR triples is ability to use GSXR fender which is perfect mount & spacing.

I actually used my park tool steering race press bicycle tool last time.
Was a little dodgy because I had to use all king of spacers and washers.
But next time I do it I make a custom spacer because it still worked pretty good.

I'm going to use a Busa fender but i'm going to cut it up because its so **** ugly. It is wide enough and the holes are in the right place. I assume that it may be possible to actually mount a GSXR fender on the inside of the tabs on the fork, but maybe not because those tabs are thicker than 3.5mm.

Rather than knocking bearings in with a mallet, I prefer to pull them in.
A length of threaded rod through the stem, a couple of nuts & washers (with the old bearing shell as Zoran suggests) and just wind the nuts down and pull the bearings all the way in to seat.I wanted to do it this way, too. But with the very thin wall thickness of Zorans bearing it actually worked worse then tapping it in, so YMMW.

Ciao
Jan

I wanted to do it this way, too. But with the very thin wall thickness of Zorans bearing it actually worked worse then tapping it in, so YMMW.

Ciao
Jan

+1
I tried with a headset bearing press the first 3 times and it kept going in too crooked.

I ended up just gently tapping it in with a mallet and the old race on top, this ended up working perfectly.

Then I did the bearing press just to make sure it was bottomed out and parallel.

Another fix i used was after you have tapped the race in, place the bearing in and the dust cover and top nuts and lower triple and tighten them down super hard then back off of them to normal tightness. Seems to have helped center it a bit.

ghetto subscription! looks like a great one to follow. Nice pic catalog.

Another fix i used was after you have tapped the race in, place the bearing in and the dust cover and top nuts and lower triple and tighten them down super hard then back off of them to normal tightness. Seems to have helped center it a bit.

I would never do that, you could put indentation in the race and /or put flats on the rollers. You should never over tighten thrust bearings.
I've seen the damage when people do this.

Finally! My upper triple came back from the machine shop. I had them place a piece of aluminum cut up to fit the recessed areas of the top triple. Then I had them tap and drill it so that the bolts would work. Looks really good...

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1500.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1501.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1503.jpg

Interesting way to do it.

Ok so once you have your triple with mounted gauges and risers if you're doing handlebars, you can go ahead and screw the keyhole back on the triple using that stupid security torx tool.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1510.jpg

Once that has been done, pull all of the cables and wires from the controls and clutch back through in between the forks and neck.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1506.jpg

Then you can go ahead and put the triple back on the bike.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1508.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1511.jpg

Tighten the pinch bolts and top nut with washer once you have lined up the forks up top.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1509.jpg

Ok now I made the mistake of putting the handlebars on first and then trying to put the controls on...WRONG.

Slide the left mirror on and screw in the left control using that stub as the guide.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1512.jpg
Something like this...

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1513.jpg

Same goes with the right controls.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1514.jpg

So then you can tighten the handlebars down once you have them where you want them.
Now you can put on the brakes using the 2 screws on each side.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1504.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1505.jpg

So it should look something like this...
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1515.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1516.jpg

The end is near!
My spacers came today which means i can finally get the tire on..
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1524.jpg

Remember: If you just buy yourself a busa axle and wheel then you will not need spacers for this. Unfortunately I didn't know this until after I had bought the wheel and axle...
Anyway, take off the rotor bolts and remove the rotor so you can put your spacers on them.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1526.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1525.jpg

Then pull out one of your brakes so the wheel goes on easier, and slide the axle through wheel and the axle spacer.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1528.jpg

You can see the spacer here although its kind of a crappy pic...
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1527.jpg

Now tighten the axle down to snug and then tighten the pinch bolts. Then you can finally get the thing off the jack.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1530.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1531.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1532.jpg

All I have left is to make the speedo work and find some way to mount the headlight. Hopefully the Wisconsin weather will have at least gotten above freezing...

Hopefully the Wisconsin weather will have at least gotten above freezing...

My heater went out last night. Having the brother-in-law stop by to check out the furnace. BUURRRRRrr.

I just got my risers, waiting on minibars. A friend of mine "wussed" out on drilling holes for my top triple.

Great write up so far.

Great write up thinking about doing this sv650s!!!

Well I got my hall effect sensor the other day but due to a lack of a camera I was unable to get pics posted until now. So i'll put up the pictures and I'm sure that you can use your imagination as to what it looked like before i put it on...
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0417.jpg

Also the bracket that I made there is really a test one made from sheet aluminum until I can have one made out of a thicker material. It's about 7x3.5 inches.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0415.jpg
And here it is sitting where it would be if the fender were on...
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0416.jpg

And the old one...
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0418.jpg

Since i soldered it before I was able to put up a wiring diagram I'll just say what the wires are...
SV SENSOR HALL EFFECT

12V Orange/Red → Black/Red

6V Pink → Black/White

Signal Black/White → Black

The SoCalSV writeup that I orinally used for this post is WRONG. The pink wire is the 6v and the Black/White wire from the SV harness is ground/signal. BE AWARE! It is very useful to check the voltage with a volt meter just to double check. I got burned by this the first time and had some trouble before I got it working "properly".

I'm still waiting on the Neodymium magnets to come so yet again my project is stilted by USPS...

Well finally my magnets are here and of course they aren't the right size... Apparently the GSXR has a diminishing diameter in the holes of the rotor for what I guess is added ridgity.

So it required me to go against the advisory on the magnet site and I had to cut them to size. I bought 3/8" X 3/8" and the right ones would have been 3/8" X 1/4". Oh well..
They fit anyway so who really cares at this point.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0421.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0427.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0428.jpg
So this is kind of what they look like. Thankfully the mutilated side goes on the inside.

After this you can mount the sensor and the fender. Since the SRAD forks are wider unless you get some sort of custom fender the GSXR fender will not fit on the bike. So I decided to go with the BUSA fender..Not my first choice but whatever.
Here it is mostly put together:
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0431.jpg

Then you go ahead and get yourself some headlight brackets. There are several kinds but I decided to go with aztec8 parts since that's what a lot of people do and they're not that expensive. I used 4: 2 48mm's and 2 54mm's. Of course they dont make 53 but the lower 54's are really only there to keep the headlight steady so it worked out ok.

Now since the forks are wider, the aztec 8 parts will need to be cut. I cut one side of the 2 piece clamp so that the headlight bracket itself will fit within the forks. I didn't really measure as you have some leeway since the headlight bracket is rubber mounted and bends a little. However, you have to be VERY careful not to cut too deep otherwise you will compromise the ridigity of the pieces.

I don't have a pic of the cut pieces because I put them on before I got my hands on another camera but I'm sure you can use your imagination.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0435.jpg
Here's the headlight on the bracket after everything is said and done.
Note how the inner side of the aztec8 piece is smaller than the outer one:
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0436.jpg

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0433.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0432.jpg

And the bike how it is now:
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/100_0434.jpg

All that is left is a set of brake lines from cyclebrakes and then that will be it.
What a **** ton of work...

nice pictorial! I wish I had the patience to have taken a bunch of photos of the "during" the swap... Filing the neck of the frame was no big deal, just found an old round file and went to town for a few minutes... I laughed at the "light tapping" to get the race out. I had to pound pretty dang hard! lol

And, hopefully this won't spawn a ton of chatter (I hate getting huge, off-topic posts), but I though that the 06-07 forks had different diameter upper and lower fork tubes or it had some strange tapered upper triple clamp? But, I guess you figured it out, and it looks great. You'll love it, i love mine!! ;)

What part of WI are you in?? I'm in western Chicago burbs... Maybe I'll see you on an ABC ride this spring! ;)

Props for the Grand Candy Blue too, I love that color!! Although, I haven't seen it in person, but that blue AGV S-4 helmet looks the bee's knees (if I ever get a custom paint job)!!

Yeah I actually lucked out on that helmet. My dad bought an R1 a few years ago (which i evidently crashed...) that came with that helmet. But my dad lives in Florida now and is rather anti-helmet so gave it to me. Good thing it happened to be blue since I bought the bike after i had the helmet haha.

The forks do change diameter a few times from top to bottom but where the triples clamp they are the same, thankfully. I actually had to buy a couple of punches before I bought the BIG ONE which turned out to be about 14inches long and after that and about 4 hammer taps it popped right out. The bigger the tool, the easier the job apparently.

Also curious about where in WI you might be hiding - I'm in the Milwaukee area (and thinking about doing something similar to my sv next winter hehe)

This is the story on the fork/triple relationship Apollo ......

.... I though that the 06-07 forks had different diameter upper and lower fork tubes or it had some strange tapered upper triple clamp? .....

....
You will also need shims between those fork legs & lower triple clamp - the SRAD is for 54mm legs, those Showa 06+ forks are 53mm. So you will need some 0.5mm (~20thou) shim material to make a sleeve. ...

...
Now if you have a set of 53mm forks and a set of 54mm lower triples like i did, it will be necessary to either purchase or fabricate a 1mm spacer to accomodate the gap. I simply purchased a set of shims from convertibars for 20-something dollars, but making your own will definitely be cheaper.

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Suavenotion/DSCF1469.jpg...

Yeah I actually lucked out on that helmet. My dad bought an R1 a few years ago (which i evidently crashed...) that came with that helmet. But my dad lives in Florida now and is rather anti-helmet so gave it to me. Good thing it happened to be blue since I bought the bike after i had the helmet haha.

The forks do change diameter a few times from top to bottom but where the triples clamp they are the same, thankfully. I actually had to buy a couple of punches before I bought the BIG ONE which turned out to be about 14inches long and after that and about 4 hammer taps it popped right out. The bigger the tool, the easier the job apparently.

That's funny. I had a blue/white jacket and blue gloves for my first gear, and I had a black/gold 89 Yamaha Radian for my 1st bike... Then I got my SV to match my gear too!! ;D

Any more pics?
Here is a current picture of my poor baby :'( :
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j78/SpeedyRabbit/Motorcycle%20Stuff/th_IMG_5002.jpg (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j78/SpeedyRabbit/Motorcycle%20Stuff/IMG_5002.jpg)

Its lookin real good. In fact it looks just like mine haha. Why does your shifter look so low? I also like the silver engine you got under there. Definitely rally worthy!

Well...the very last part is due for arrival on friday. It's the reservoir bracket from cyclewerks. I will have a picture of the completed bike outside when it warms up a bit so that could be anywhere from now until April...

The mod list goes as follows:

06/07 GSXR 600 forks
08 GSXR 1000 front wheel
97 SRAD upper and lower triples
Convertibars fork shims
cyclewerks reservoir bracket
07 GSXR 600 rotors and master cylinder
Galfer SS brake lines
TWF top bearing kit
Aztec8 headlight brackets.
Custom made axle and wheel shims
07 GSXR 1000 front axle
random year hayabusa fender
Hall effect speedo sensor with "custom" bracket
Lots of finesse...

Thanks to everyone who posted on here, especially those who brought to my attention the fact that the forks are wider apart and required shimming. I hope this is helpful to anyone else who cares to do a GSXR swap to a GenI SV.

the shift rod is disconnected. I've removed the old shift cable with the intention of replacing it with that MotionPro one... :)

I thought the silver engine was standard? (I just looked above and I see yours is black. Hrm.)

Yeah that's odd. I know that 03+ have silver engines but I figured they changed it when they made it fuel injected. But yeah, mine is black like all the GenI's i've seen except yours...

I can't quote the dates at which they changed colors, but Suzuki seemed to like changing paint colors on the frames and engine cases ... "just because".

.. Gregg

weird. all the 1st gen's that I've seen have the silver engine.:o

weird. all the 1st gen's that I've seen have the silver engine.:o

'99 and 2000 had blacked out engines. 2001 is when they went silver. Only first gen to get blacked out wheels was the 2000.

weird. all the 1st gen's that I've seen have the silver engine.:o

I've got two clutch side engine covers from Gen 1's that are black ...

.. Gregg

'99 and 2000 had blacked out engines. 2001 is when they went silver. Only first gen to get blacked out wheels was the 2000.

I guess i should consider my bike a rare find then...

You finally ride this thing around yet!? ;D Did you go to the SV Rally?

My bike's still not finished... every little thing just turns into a big deal... like my F3 rear swap... ended up buying a silver F2 rim, got all the sprocket nuts off, but one would NOT budge... stripped it. CRIP. had to buy bolt-extractor kit... Got the dam bolt off with a 4-foot breaker-bar. had to sell the F2 rim, found a black F3 rim, spray painted the silver F2 carrier black to match the rim.

got an oversized galfer rotor so I can use the stock SV caliper... shimmed the rotor out with washers to line up with the rear caliper. then decided it seemed safer to shim the caliper instead (to have the rotor flush with the rim), and found out one of the rear pistons is frozen. ordered the rear caliper gasket kit to do a caliper rebuild, then proceeded to strip one of the bolts that hold the halves of the caliper together. argh! instead of ordering one dang bolt for probably $12, buying the bolt-extractor to remove it... etc. I just found someone selling a full brake system (mc, res, lines, caliper, hanger) for only $25 shipped... now need to install that.

LOL.... And that's just one PART of what keeps happening to my dang projects! If it's not one thing, it's another... also bought billet rear brake reservoir, but it doesn't fit with the stock brake lines, so back to using the tygon 2075 tubing I have for rear brake res... but the "cap" I was using from the HRC brake res delete kit (with the very cloudy yoyodyne tubing) doesn't fit the proper opaque, tygon 2075 tubing.... Trip to ACE hardware for 10mm bolt and 1/4" hose clamp for a makeshift "stopper" ... I think the bolt will hold the liquid, but maybe I should find a rubber washer to seal the tube cap/bolt even better...

I have a couple of other stories just like that about a few other ongoing projects that I'm doing... And on top of it all, my bike won't start, just goes "chug-chug-chug" and won't turn over.

me is frustrated!

You finally ride this thing around yet!? ;D Did you go to the SV Rally?

.....

me is frustrated!

Goodness! Yeah things like that often happen to me which is why I decided to do one project at at time (fork swap, then wheels, then engine, etc.)

Problems are bound to occur when you do something especially when there isn't a "set guide" of rules to follow. Also you always have to be prepared for waiting for new parts, especially when you break stuff.

and yes, I did go to the rally and it was awesome. I missed the group photo for whatever reason I didn't know what time it was so I ended up not making it. Also zeefoto got crappy shots of me and killboy had NO shots of me so whatever. But the point was to see how to bike rode and have fun with it whcih I did and it was awesome. The forks really make all the difference. I would suggest a steering damper for it though.

The new forks make it a bit squirrely through slow turns but its not really necessary (some may disagree).

Next up is exhaust, jets and the cam swap. Lets hope that goes well!

So why won't your bike start?

Ahhh the sweet sound of a v-twin race exhaust....tell me you are going to violate a few noise ordinances with that exhaust swap Suave.....

Next up is exhaust, jets and the cam swap. Lets hope that goes well!

So why won't your bike start?

do one of them at a time! so if one thing goes wrong, you will know what you messed up... I also did my jets+camswap+exhaust swap at the same time, and now it won't run :(.

I would say if your bike is running fine, do the cam swap 1st (so u know for SURE that when you're done the bike should run fine), then do the exhaust (bike should still run okay with that), then try dialing in the jets.

I've no idea which I messed up, so I'm working on finishing all my little side/cosmetic projects (I have a retardedly long list of mods I'm currently doing) and then just haul the thing to a mechanic for some expert engine tuning. :)

Ahhh the sweet sound of a v-twin race exhaust....tell me you are going to violate a few noise ordinances with that exhaust swap Suave.....

I fully intend on it. I've got a full stainless system which i'm going to cut the can in half. Guaranteed to set off some car alarms. ;D

do one of them at a time! so if one thing goes wrong, you will know what you messed up... I also did my jets+camswap+exhaust swap at the same time, and now it won't run :(.

I would say if your bike is running fine, do the cam swap 1st (so u know for SURE that when you're done the bike should run fine), then do the exhaust (bike should still run okay with that), then try dialing in the jets.

I've no idea which I messed up, so I'm working on finishing all my little side/cosmetic projects (I have a retardedly long list of mods I'm currently doing) and then just haul the thing to a mechanic for some expert engine tuning. :)

I would assume you could have possibly put the cams in off by a tooth or so and it's just off time. ???

I would assume you could have possibly put the cams in off by a tooth or so and it's just off time. ???
I wish. :( I checked the timing like 3 times! 16 links between marker to marker, and they're marked correctly. Someone else can monkey with the engine, my goal is to get all the rest of the parts bolted back on! haha :p

I'm about ready take a vacation and put the bike on a trailer and take the **** thing to Reno and have Zoran fix the **** thing. probably something super simple that as a n00b I overlooked.

I wish. :( I checked the timing like 3 times! 16 links between marker to marker, and they're marked correctly. Someone else can monkey with the engine, my goal is to get all the rest of the parts bolted back on! haha :p

I'm about ready take a vacation and put the bike on a trailer and take the **** thing to Reno and have Zoran fix the **** thing. probably something super simple that as a n00b I overlooked.

It's funny how frequently that turns out to be the case. lol Getting to Zoran is gonna be a long haul from IL...

Hopefully my summer mods will go well and maybe put me up for SVotM nomination :p

They will include:
Jets
Cams
Exhaust
Paint
Powder Coated wheels

I'll be sure to put up pictures as all of this unfolds.

ooh nice. any spoilers on paint & wheels? :)
I would love to PC the frame/swingarm and do custom paint.

yeah, going to Reno is overkill. I'm sure that I can find someone in the midwest that can fix it.

I fully intend on it. I've got a full stainless system which i'm going to cut the can in half. Guaranteed to set off some car alarms. ;D

hehe I've got the Yosh Rs-3 Race on my lightweight racer - short can not required, it sets alarms off just fine as is - side the CF can adds a nice touch ;D

Midwest I know of one guy in Madison

Motorcycle Performance in Madison. Bill does Ed Key's stuff.

Ed Key is the man on a sv in CCS lightweight racing, considering that his sv is making like 105hp this guy gets my vote - otherwise drop me a line some time I'm just up in Monomnee Falls, WI, I've now rebuilt 2 sv motors....the race bike hates me.....

Subscribed!!!!! But is there no easier way than making shims for the triples?

Subscribed!!!!! But is there no easier way than making shims for the triples?

You can buy them. Like 20 bucks from www.convertibars.com.

I like the beer/soda can idea as shims. ;D
can't beat $0.75 per shim! plus, you get to drink your beer! hahaha.

Are there sizing differences between the 06/07 forks for the 600 versus the 750? Also are the newer forks any different? Meaning the 08/09 models?

This is where all that info lies. http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=59000

As far as I know, the actual width of the 600 and 750 forks are the same. In fact I believe the bikes share the exact same forks but don't quote me on that. I also am not sure if current model bikes have different forks but it doesn't seem like it.

+1 on those bars,i've been looking at them for a while, now i gotta have them.