MotoFusion
11-12-2007, 12:06 PM
If you're looking for a new look and sound for your SV, changing the exhaust can be one of the best ways to achieve this. A performance increase can also be had as well. Here are some things you should know before choosing the exhaust for you.
Exhaust Fitting
Because of the many refinements to the SV, exhausts must be of the proper fit to work with your particular bike.
'99-'02 - If you've got a '99-'02 SV, then you'll need to look for exhausts fitted for a '99-'02 SV. As long as the exhaust is made for a first generation SV, it will fit your bike. Exhaust for 2003 and up SV's will not work.
'03 - This year of SV is unique. It has an elevated subframe which means the brackets to mount an exhaust are different from any other year. If you have any '03 SV, then you need to find an exhaust specifically made for the '03. Exhausts made for other years will not work. An exhaust made for '03 will not fit any other year of SV.
'04-'08 - You'll need to look for exhausts fitted for an '04-'08 SV. If the exhaust is made for any of these years, it will fit your bike.
* NOTE * - The '07 and newer California model SV's are fitted with an oxygen sensor in the midpipe. You'll have to assure with the exhaust manufacturer that there is a bung in the pipe that will accommodate your oxygen sensor if you have an '07-'08 California model SV.
Exhaust Sound
If you're looking for an inline-4 super sport sound from your SV, you've got the wrong bike. You'll never get that sound no matter what you try. The SV has a unique twin sound that most prefer over the high pitched rip of an inline-4.
Over a stock exhaust can, you can expect your SV to have a deeper and louder sound. There isn't much variance between the sounds of after-market exhausts. You can expect to hear slight differences in timbre and volume when comparing different exhausts, but overall, they're sound will not vary far from the distinctive twin sound.
Full-system exhausts will generally be louder and have a deeper sound than slip-on exhausts. As a general rule-of-thumb, the more volume inside the exhaust, the deeper the sound will be.
Exhaust Types
There are two types of exhaust systems for your SV. You can purchase a slip-on exhaust (generally less expensive) or a full system exhaust (more expensive, but it nets a bit more power).
Slip-on Exhausts
• Less expensive
• Easy to install
• Reduced weight
• Doesn't require a remap/rejet*
• Requires modification to stock exhaust system
A slip-on is generally less expensive and easy to install. To install the exhaust, you will have to cut your mid-pipe (using a hacksaw, sawzall/reciprocating saw, angle grinder, plasma torch, jaws-of-life if you're nimble, you get the picture...). It's a very easy procedure to do and requires minimal tools. Slip-ons will give you a louder and deeper sound to your bike and a nice look, but rarely do they net a power increase, and if they do, you won't be able to tell. In general, a slip-on will not require you to remap/rejet your bike's fuel injection mapping or carburetor jetting. For first generation bikes, rejetting the carbs can clean up some flat spots in the factory lean jetting, so it is generally a good idea to do when installing a slip-on. This modification is best suited for street riders.
Full System Exhaust
• More expensive
• Even more reduced weight
• Generally nets a HP/Torque Increase
• Does not require modification of stock exhaust system
• Will most likely require a remap/rejet*
Full system exhausts replace not just the muffler, but also the the mid-pipe and exhaust headers. The result of this is far less exhaust system weight, a HP/Torque gain, and an open and deep exhaust tone. In general, full system exhausts will require a remap/rejet of the fuel injection mapping/carburetor jetting. A high flow air filter should also be installed. This modification is best suited for track day addicts and racers.
High Mount Vs Low Mount
It mostly comes down to a cosmetics battle, but each setup does have its advantages and disadvantages. A high-mount muffler generally offers better crash protection (it's less likely to get damaged in a low side/high side) and may offer improved aerodynamics (the SV tops out at 130 mph, so it's not really gonna make a difference). However, a high mount can's mounting position makes mounting saddle bags almost impossible. Furthermore, a high mount can is generally a bit more expensive because the mid-pipe must be bent at more extreme angles.
Some have reported that their high-mount can's mid-pipe interferes with their right side foot position on occasion. To remedy the problem, they have made heat shields for the mid-pipe to prevent the pipe from melting the heal of their boot.
There is some debate as to whether or not a low-mount setup flows exhaust gases more efficiently than a high-mount set can. In theory, the extra bends could restrict airflow to a degree. If you take time to look at your exhaust system, however, you'll notice far more extreme bends in the headers and exhaust collector that can be more major constrictors of exhaust flow. As long as I've been a member here, I've never seen proof of a low-mount can's exhaust flow advantage. Even if it did have an advantage, the amount is miniscule - it would net a fraction of a horsepower at best.
* Carburetor Jetting - The carburetors on your first generation SV are setup for the factory exhaust and intake systems. When you increase airflow by reducing exhaust and intake restriction, the factory jetting will cause your bike to run lean. A lean condition can cause damage to your engine over time. To remedy this, you must re-jet your carburetors to add more fuel to cope with the increase airflow. Jet kits are available from many online retailers. Your local dealer will also stock individual jets (at a significantly lower cost than buying a whole jet kit). The best way to tell if you have a lean condition is to check your spark plugs. Light tan is great, black - too rich, and white - too lean.
* Fuel injection mapping - Because of the primitive nature of the SV650's fuel injection, the engine is not able to cope with increased airflow through the engine - in other words, the bike will generally run lean. A lean condition can cause damage to your engine over time. Remapping the stock fuel injection will generally increase fuel delivery throughout the engine operating range. Products such as the Techlusion TFi box and Power Commander PCIIIUSB are able to modify the fuel injection curves. You can also have your stock ECU remapped by a dealer. Remapping should be done on a dynamometer for best results.
Rejetting/Remapping - To get the maximum benefits out of your full system exhaust, you will need to remap your fuel injection or rejet your carburetors. At this time, it is advisable to upgrade the intake system (there are various ways to do so, but that should be discussed in a different thread).
Rejetting/Remapping should be done on a dynamometer to tap the largest potential of your full system exhaust. Not doing so leaves your mapping/jetting to guesswork. A dynamometer with a "sniffer" will show the air/fuel ratio throughout the powerband and will tell the tech where fuel delivery needs to be increased or decreased. Dyno time is not cheap, but without it, your full system will not deliver the performance that it is built for.
What is that popping noise on deceleration? - On second generation SV's, Suzuki added an emissions system called the PAIR (Pulsed Air Injection) system. This works by injecting fresh air just after the exhaust ports into the hot exhaust gasses. The hot exhaust gasses and cold air mix inside the exhaust and combust. You were not able to hear this with your stock exhaust system due to the extensive baffling. These gasses combusting in your exhaust system are not detrimental to your exhaust system or normal operation of your engine.
To get rid of the popping noise, the PAIR system must be disabled - either by plugging the PAIR intake tube or removing the entire system. By disabling the system, your motorcycle will emit more emissions. If your county tests emissions, you may not pass them. Disable the system at your own risk.
Various Exhaust Manufacturers
• Holeshot - http://www.holeshot.com/
• Devil - http://www.devilbikes.com/
• Yoshimura - http://www.yoshimura-rd.com/
• Two Brothers Racing - http://www.twobros.com/
• Leo Vince - http://www.leovinceusa.com/
• M4 - http://www.m4exhaust.com/
• Micron - http://www.micron-exhaust.com/
• Scorpion - http://www.scorpion-exhausts.com/
• Blue Flame - http://www.blueflameperformance.com/
• Renegade - http://www.renegade-products.com/renegadeusa/
• Remus - http://www.remus.at/
• Vance & Hines - http://www.vanceandhines.com/
• Akrapovic - http://www.akrapovic-exhaust.com/
• Jardine - http://www.jardineproducts.com/
• Muzzy - http://www.muzzys.com/
• D&D - http://www.danddexhaust.com/
• Ixil - http://www.ixil.com/
• Hindle - http://www.hindle.com/
• Laser - http://www.laserexhausts.com/
• Supertrapp - http://www.supertrapp.com/
• Staintune - http://www.staintune.com.au/
• Art - (Website Not Available)
Exhaust Fitting
Because of the many refinements to the SV, exhausts must be of the proper fit to work with your particular bike.
'99-'02 - If you've got a '99-'02 SV, then you'll need to look for exhausts fitted for a '99-'02 SV. As long as the exhaust is made for a first generation SV, it will fit your bike. Exhaust for 2003 and up SV's will not work.
'03 - This year of SV is unique. It has an elevated subframe which means the brackets to mount an exhaust are different from any other year. If you have any '03 SV, then you need to find an exhaust specifically made for the '03. Exhausts made for other years will not work. An exhaust made for '03 will not fit any other year of SV.
'04-'08 - You'll need to look for exhausts fitted for an '04-'08 SV. If the exhaust is made for any of these years, it will fit your bike.
* NOTE * - The '07 and newer California model SV's are fitted with an oxygen sensor in the midpipe. You'll have to assure with the exhaust manufacturer that there is a bung in the pipe that will accommodate your oxygen sensor if you have an '07-'08 California model SV.
Exhaust Sound
If you're looking for an inline-4 super sport sound from your SV, you've got the wrong bike. You'll never get that sound no matter what you try. The SV has a unique twin sound that most prefer over the high pitched rip of an inline-4.
Over a stock exhaust can, you can expect your SV to have a deeper and louder sound. There isn't much variance between the sounds of after-market exhausts. You can expect to hear slight differences in timbre and volume when comparing different exhausts, but overall, they're sound will not vary far from the distinctive twin sound.
Full-system exhausts will generally be louder and have a deeper sound than slip-on exhausts. As a general rule-of-thumb, the more volume inside the exhaust, the deeper the sound will be.
Exhaust Types
There are two types of exhaust systems for your SV. You can purchase a slip-on exhaust (generally less expensive) or a full system exhaust (more expensive, but it nets a bit more power).
Slip-on Exhausts
• Less expensive
• Easy to install
• Reduced weight
• Doesn't require a remap/rejet*
• Requires modification to stock exhaust system
A slip-on is generally less expensive and easy to install. To install the exhaust, you will have to cut your mid-pipe (using a hacksaw, sawzall/reciprocating saw, angle grinder, plasma torch, jaws-of-life if you're nimble, you get the picture...). It's a very easy procedure to do and requires minimal tools. Slip-ons will give you a louder and deeper sound to your bike and a nice look, but rarely do they net a power increase, and if they do, you won't be able to tell. In general, a slip-on will not require you to remap/rejet your bike's fuel injection mapping or carburetor jetting. For first generation bikes, rejetting the carbs can clean up some flat spots in the factory lean jetting, so it is generally a good idea to do when installing a slip-on. This modification is best suited for street riders.
Full System Exhaust
• More expensive
• Even more reduced weight
• Generally nets a HP/Torque Increase
• Does not require modification of stock exhaust system
• Will most likely require a remap/rejet*
Full system exhausts replace not just the muffler, but also the the mid-pipe and exhaust headers. The result of this is far less exhaust system weight, a HP/Torque gain, and an open and deep exhaust tone. In general, full system exhausts will require a remap/rejet of the fuel injection mapping/carburetor jetting. A high flow air filter should also be installed. This modification is best suited for track day addicts and racers.
High Mount Vs Low Mount
It mostly comes down to a cosmetics battle, but each setup does have its advantages and disadvantages. A high-mount muffler generally offers better crash protection (it's less likely to get damaged in a low side/high side) and may offer improved aerodynamics (the SV tops out at 130 mph, so it's not really gonna make a difference). However, a high mount can's mounting position makes mounting saddle bags almost impossible. Furthermore, a high mount can is generally a bit more expensive because the mid-pipe must be bent at more extreme angles.
Some have reported that their high-mount can's mid-pipe interferes with their right side foot position on occasion. To remedy the problem, they have made heat shields for the mid-pipe to prevent the pipe from melting the heal of their boot.
There is some debate as to whether or not a low-mount setup flows exhaust gases more efficiently than a high-mount set can. In theory, the extra bends could restrict airflow to a degree. If you take time to look at your exhaust system, however, you'll notice far more extreme bends in the headers and exhaust collector that can be more major constrictors of exhaust flow. As long as I've been a member here, I've never seen proof of a low-mount can's exhaust flow advantage. Even if it did have an advantage, the amount is miniscule - it would net a fraction of a horsepower at best.
* Carburetor Jetting - The carburetors on your first generation SV are setup for the factory exhaust and intake systems. When you increase airflow by reducing exhaust and intake restriction, the factory jetting will cause your bike to run lean. A lean condition can cause damage to your engine over time. To remedy this, you must re-jet your carburetors to add more fuel to cope with the increase airflow. Jet kits are available from many online retailers. Your local dealer will also stock individual jets (at a significantly lower cost than buying a whole jet kit). The best way to tell if you have a lean condition is to check your spark plugs. Light tan is great, black - too rich, and white - too lean.
* Fuel injection mapping - Because of the primitive nature of the SV650's fuel injection, the engine is not able to cope with increased airflow through the engine - in other words, the bike will generally run lean. A lean condition can cause damage to your engine over time. Remapping the stock fuel injection will generally increase fuel delivery throughout the engine operating range. Products such as the Techlusion TFi box and Power Commander PCIIIUSB are able to modify the fuel injection curves. You can also have your stock ECU remapped by a dealer. Remapping should be done on a dynamometer for best results.
Rejetting/Remapping - To get the maximum benefits out of your full system exhaust, you will need to remap your fuel injection or rejet your carburetors. At this time, it is advisable to upgrade the intake system (there are various ways to do so, but that should be discussed in a different thread).
Rejetting/Remapping should be done on a dynamometer to tap the largest potential of your full system exhaust. Not doing so leaves your mapping/jetting to guesswork. A dynamometer with a "sniffer" will show the air/fuel ratio throughout the powerband and will tell the tech where fuel delivery needs to be increased or decreased. Dyno time is not cheap, but without it, your full system will not deliver the performance that it is built for.
What is that popping noise on deceleration? - On second generation SV's, Suzuki added an emissions system called the PAIR (Pulsed Air Injection) system. This works by injecting fresh air just after the exhaust ports into the hot exhaust gasses. The hot exhaust gasses and cold air mix inside the exhaust and combust. You were not able to hear this with your stock exhaust system due to the extensive baffling. These gasses combusting in your exhaust system are not detrimental to your exhaust system or normal operation of your engine.
To get rid of the popping noise, the PAIR system must be disabled - either by plugging the PAIR intake tube or removing the entire system. By disabling the system, your motorcycle will emit more emissions. If your county tests emissions, you may not pass them. Disable the system at your own risk.
Various Exhaust Manufacturers
• Holeshot - http://www.holeshot.com/
• Devil - http://www.devilbikes.com/
• Yoshimura - http://www.yoshimura-rd.com/
• Two Brothers Racing - http://www.twobros.com/
• Leo Vince - http://www.leovinceusa.com/
• M4 - http://www.m4exhaust.com/
• Micron - http://www.micron-exhaust.com/
• Scorpion - http://www.scorpion-exhausts.com/
• Blue Flame - http://www.blueflameperformance.com/
• Renegade - http://www.renegade-products.com/renegadeusa/
• Remus - http://www.remus.at/
• Vance & Hines - http://www.vanceandhines.com/
• Akrapovic - http://www.akrapovic-exhaust.com/
• Jardine - http://www.jardineproducts.com/
• Muzzy - http://www.muzzys.com/
• D&D - http://www.danddexhaust.com/
• Ixil - http://www.ixil.com/
• Hindle - http://www.hindle.com/
• Laser - http://www.laserexhausts.com/
• Supertrapp - http://www.supertrapp.com/
• Staintune - http://www.staintune.com.au/
• Art - (Website Not Available)